“Does he seriously hope to pass off this rhapsody on meat and starch as a treatise on cooking? Does he actually think that anyone who has the least notion of what is involved in a balanced diet would condescend to settle down in the waistland of gravy and spaetzle he praises so extravagantly? Well, believe it or not, I am willing to concede you your point. I have no quarrel with the general validity of nutritional considerations; any more than I would try to argue you down on the subject of the germ theory. The only caution I would insist upon is that, given modern man’s tendency to idolatry — his preference of meaning over matter, his penchant for the useful rather than the delicious — both of them can, while remaining true as far as they go, be turned into dangerous con jobs. There are people, you know, who will not kiss you on the lips” (Robert Farrar Capon, The Supper of the Lamb, pp. 122-123).
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